Statistics: Posted by rocofan+1307 — Sat Dec 31, 2016 5:40 am
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Statistics: Posted by JanBoettcher — Fri Nov 18, 2016 10:12 am
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Switch to "SE":
"mirror" fires the mirror upgreen LED flashes once
"start" releases the shutter (no matter if the mirror was up or not) followed by film transport and instant morror return.
Switch to "ME" red LED next to "start" lights up:
"mirror" fires the mirror up, The green LED flashes once
"start" releases the shutter (no matter if the mirror was up or not before, it stays up after exposure)
press start more often to take more exposures
setting "SE"/"ME" back to "SE": Film gets transportet, mirror returns down (red LED goes off)
Hope everybody else's SLX & MRC 120 will work the same way
Statistics: Posted by JanBoettcher — Fri Nov 11, 2016 12:25 am
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If the MRC 120 does work on the SLX or not? I'd have to find mine and try it or find a manual and (SHUDDER!) read it.
Statistics: Posted by JanBoettcher — Wed Nov 02, 2016 6:51 am
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For the MRC 120 I'd have to dig one out ... probably you turn from ME to SE before you trigger the last time and the film will get transportet after the last shot within the series.
On the other hand, with the ME-1 you can do a lot of funny things ... multiple exposures with very short intervals etc..
Statistics: Posted by JanBoettcher — Tue Nov 01, 2016 7:17 am
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The idea behind the "mirror prerelease" (Spiegelvorauslösung) is to put the camera on a tripod, release the mirror, wait a moment so the camera does not shake anymore and fire the shutter.
Statistics: Posted by JanBoettcher — Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:34 am
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My suggestion is to get color slide film. It will reveal any trouble ...
others will recommend color negative or Ilford XP2 (C42 B&W film) because it is more forgiving and you will get "halfways decent" results quick (but it takes longer to detect and eliminate gear trouble or personal errors).
Statistics: Posted by JanBoettcher — Fri Nov 28, 2014 6:54 am
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The SLX used/needed 0,8A, lter models had ... (I'd have to look it up).
So, if your camera encounters a condition drawing too much / a lot of current, the 0,8A fuse may blow too early for a 6008 and the 1,25A (or whatever) fuse from a 6008 battery may not be able to protect your camera from frying its circuitry.
I do not know how normal people manage to blow the fuse. One way is to rewind film and use it again, the other way is to use a scan-control remote designed for the 6008 SRC 1000 on an SLX/6002/6006 ...
Italy ... hmh, sorry, I do not know anybody in that area supplying "recelling", but on eBay one may find offers from other places around the world (and DHW of Braunschweig will provide a solution for sure).
Statistics: Posted by JanBoettcher — Thu Nov 27, 2014 5:07 am
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